Geez!  Is it really 2:45 a.m.?  Am I crazy?  I think a minute.  No, I’m not.  I really want to go clamming.

The day began at this ungodly hour.  Picked up Christine and we headed to Bodega Bay to meet forager extraodinare Hank Shaw and nine other people to learn the art of clamming.

There’s something mystical about driving to the coast in the middle of the night on a full moon.  There’s also a lot to be said for having a driving companion while doing so.  I needed that second set of eyes, especially in a few spots where the fog was as dense as an over whipped meringue.

We met up with our group just past the Spud Point Marina.  There were yawns, stretches and introductions before pulling on the mud boots and putting on an extra layer of just-in-case clothing.  Buckets and shovels in hand, we trudged out through the muddy clam flat just before sunrise.  The tide was -1.5, meaning areas of sand normal under water were exposed.

We were searching for horseneck clams, which I learned aren’t the tastiest  variety but still worthy.

We began looking for holes in the sand, clues to where the bivalve mollusks were lurking.  Having never clammed before, the first few attempts were feeble.  And we quickly determined a better approach to digging was essential.  It’s not easy digging up wet, muddy sand.  Some of the holes start to fill up with water faster than you can dig making it that much harder.

Watching and getting a few tips helped.  Christine spotted a live hole, we mapped out our dig and like hungry animals presented with food, dove in.  A foot and a half deep, the shovel drops and you’re on your knees digging with your hands.  I felt the clam, grabbed a hold and tried to pry it out of the sand.  It’s kind of like a game of cat and mouse.

Christine on the hunt

First Clam!

The shells aren’t as strong as I thought they’d be- I broke the first one, which kills the clam but you can still take it.  Success with the second one, no breakage.  We took turns digging and were hooked.  It’s catchy.  Once you get  that first clam, the excitement draws you in.

Almost three hours later we heard Hank announce it was time to head back.  We’d had our heads down not noticing the tide slowly coming in.

Congregating around the back of Hank’s truck, we got a lesson on how to process this clam.  Their long necks, 6 to 8+ inches, are covered by a tough, leathery-like, brownish skin.  The meat inside the neck is the best part and can be eaten as sashimi.  The rest of it is good for chowder.

After getting home, handling the live clams and processing those with broken shells (unfortunately half of ours), I didn’t have the energy to cook.  The freezer is a great friend sometimes.  I cringe as I share I processed the live clams the next day but froze them too.  I’m thinking Manhattan clam chowder and a pasta with clam dish is in my future.  This adventure was an absolute riot and I can’t wait to go again.  And next time I’ll get a close up picture of a horseneck!

Just sweet enough but not over done. That’s how I describe these candied sunflower seeds.

When we were in Madrid last year I purchased such seeds from a market vendor.  I’m not one for candied nuts but what possessed me was never having seen them.  I went back five or six times before we left and smuggled some home on the plane.

These little guys add a depth of unexpected flavor to items.  One of my favorites is sprinkling them on top of a salad that’s dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette.  Most recently they’ve ended up on a fruit salad with mango, papaya and blueberries.  They’d add a touch of sweetness to a hotter main dish.  They’ll satiate a sweet tooth all by themselves without much damage too.

Here’s how it goes for a small batch that’ll work on four or so salads and leave you some to munch on.  Put 1/4 cup of seeds in a small sauce pan.  Add 2 tablespoons of each water and sugar.  Put the pan on the stove and turn the heat to medium high.  Don’t walk away!  It’s easy to forget about them and then you’ll have a burnt mess.

When it just starts to bubble, turn the heat to low and simmer the mixture.  You want to evaporate the moisture until it’s almost all gone and the sugar coats the seeds.  This takes roughly 5 to 7 minutes.  Keep watching- the sugar will start to just brown a bit, that’s when you take them off the heat.  When you stir, they’ll be slightly goopy and sticky with minimal syrup.  If you’re not quite sure, take them off the heat.  The next step below will coax them.

The trick with these is to quickly spread them on a parchment lined baking sheet then pop them into a 350F oven.  I didn’t do this the first time and they didn’t cooperate.  The oven helps bake residual sugar and browns the seeds.  I baked mine for 2 minutes, checked, then another 2 minutes and checked.  Repeat this- you may want to decrease to 1 minute checks- until they are deep golden brown.  Remove and cool.

You can leave several clusters bunched together or break them all up into individuals, depending on how you want to use them.  Dangerously seductive little seeds they are!

I haven’t tried this with nuts but based on reading about making candied nuts, this method will work.  Some people don’t use water (check out Suzie the Foodie, she convinced me) while others do.  If you’ve made them differently, let us know!

Candied sunflower seeds ready for consumption

Chef Brad Cecchi, Executive Sous Chef at The Grange in Sacramento is at the helm of the roast.  His main attraction is a Berkshire Hog with vegetables, both from Jubilee Farm.   In addition to the roast, a variety of other pork items is on the menu such as salumi, sausages, pate and bacon jam (yes, jam made with bacon). And vegetables from other area farms including Full Belly Farm and Farm Fresh To You are also joining in the fun.

Event beneficiaries are the Oak Park Farmers Market and Slow Food Sacramento, both great examples of dedication to preserving the farm to table movement and increasing local food access to the surrounding community.

I’m looking forward to the seducing smells of the variety of pork items available for consumption that day.  And chef Cecchi didn’t forget the vegetarians.  He’s preparing alternative grilled options for all to be had.  Take a closer look at the details:

Menu items include:

• Roasted Whole Pig
• Salt Roasted Pork
• Grilled Rack of Pork
• Roasted Porchetta
• Fresh Sausages
• Farm Fresh Chicken (Cooked Inside the Pork)
• Baked Beans
• Grilled Asparagus
• Farmers Market Strawberries
• Farmers Market Potato Salad
• Vegetables Boulangerie
• Apple Cider & Juices (from Barsotti Family Juice Company)
• Bacon Maple Doughnuts (from Doughbot Doughnuts)

As a kid, we always had a garden. My dad cleverly utilized all available yard, planting things about and in between.  The thing I do now, which he didn’t, is garden year around.  Another thing he didn’t do is make pesto with radish greens.

February was the start of my late-winter garden.  What didn’t happen in my haste to get items planted was spreading things out.  We’ve enjoyed an onslaught of beautiful French breakfast radishes for the last month, despite nibbles from a few snails and slugs.

I’ve discovered ways to enjoy the radish bulb beyond slices in salads: roasted like root vegetables or quickly sautéed with something salty and savory like pancetta or anchovies for a polenta topping or a side dish.

But if you want a simple, quick and mostly healthy snack dip a radish in radish green pesto.  The combo is satisfyingly delicious.  The best part is finding a use for these sometimes-fuzzy leaves that can get thicker and unappealing but you (I) don’t necessarily want to throw them away.

Just Picked French Breakfast Radishes

A small food processor works well but a blender will do.  Wash and pull the leaves off the stem the best you can.  Throw about a packed cupful in along with a chopped garlic clove, a few tablespoons of roughly chopped almonds, pepitas or walnuts, and a large pinch of flat leaf parsley and/or cilantro.  Pulse briefly then start with a few tablespoons of olive oil. You can make it thicker, leaving small pieces chunky or process it smoother.  Add a bit of grated cheese- Parmigiano, Asiago, Pecorino- if you’d like. Taste it.  Add a squeeze of lemon or lime juice and salt if needed.  I added a few shakes of red pepper flakes too.  It’s all about what you like, satisfying your buds.

I’ve ventured out adding mint, along with thawed peas, which add a touch of sweetness.   The finished product likes to get spread on crackers and ended up on grilled fish too, among other things.

Call it a rendition of pesto, chermoula, spread or whatever.  Radishes grow just about year around so it will be delightful to share with friends this summer.

Depending on your palate, likes and dislikes, and whether you have a sweet tooth or not, these may be serious business for you.  They’re a wonderful companion to mid-morning coffee or tea rituals.  But you won’t want to limit your consumption after you’ve tasted this date bar.

Moist and chewy flesh, fresh dates of the medjool or bahri variety aren’t at all gritty.  They’re slightly sweet with a creamy honey taste.  As I described last week, they remind me of chocolate truffles only softer with caramel and vanilla butteriness, oozing ambrosial flavor.  I’d even call them a delicacy.

I made two batches of bars, one with medjool and the second with noor.  While both turned out worthy, the medjool bars had more flavor depth and were slightly sweeter without added sugar.  These are for people who like a small, not too sweet treat and don’t want to feel guilty eating one.

I made the dough part of the cookie then put it in the refrigerator overnight.  That speeded things up after work the next day.

Figs would be a great substitute for dates- no pit to remove just crunchy little seeds inside to enjoy.

For an easy dessert with a wonderful symphony of tastes, try French vanilla ice cream (I made a batch using Elise’s fantastic recipe at Simply Recipes).  Pour sherry over the top (Corti Bros has a nice selection including my favorite splurge, Garvey Gran Orden Pedro Ximenez (PX) Jerez-Xeres-Sherry).  Serve with a date bar and you’ll be um-ing and awe-ing.

Easy Date (or Fig) Bars

Makes about 25 cookies

Filling:

1 cup finely chopped dates, pits removed

3/4 cup water

3/4 cup apple juice

¼ cup sugar (optional)

¼ teaspoon orange zest

Cookie Dough:

1 stick unsalted butter, softened

½ cup sugar

½ teaspoon orange zest

1 large egg white

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 ½ cups flour (all-purpose, whole wheat or a combination)

To make the filling:

Combine figs, water, juice and sugar (if using) in a saucepan.  Bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to low and cook at a simmer for 30 to 45 minutes.  (You want the dates to be soft and spreadable, so however long it takes to get this consistency.  Mine still had soft little lumps that are fine.) Add the orange zest and cool.

To make dough:

Cream butter, sugar, and orange zest.  Beat in the egg white and vanilla.  Add the flour and stir or beat with a mixer until the dough comes together.  Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350F.

(I recommend working quickly on this next step.  As the dough gets warmer, it becomes more difficult to handle.)

On a floured surface, roll one half of dough out to about a 12 x 16-inch rectangle.  Cut into 2 or 3 strips that are 4-inches wide, depending on how wide you want your cookies.  Spoon a line of filling down the center of each strip.

Fold one side of dough over the filling; fold the remaining side over to slightly overlap the first side.  Press or softly pinch to secure the dough, then carefully flip it over so the seam side is on the bottom.  (It’s easiest to flip it directly onto a baking sheet.)

Using a serrated knife, slice each log into individual cookies.  (I cut mine every 2 ½ inches or so.) You can also put them into the freezer for 10 minutes before slicing to make it a tad easier.

Bake for 12 – 15 minutes, until golden.  Cool on a wire rack.

Adapted from Sherry Yard’s “Desserts by the Yard”

Hadley Orchards is just outside Indio, California on Interstate 10.   I went there once a year as a teen on my way to an annual horse show.  The food highlight was a thick, creamy date shake, or should I say several date shakes each trip.

Date shakes were mostly forgotten until a trip to the desert a few weeks ago where I was reacquainted with the medjool and introduced to the bahri date.

Barb, my desert host kept carrying on about the bahri’s buttery soft texture.  Dates I’ve had are medium firm or dried and not something I’d snack on.  She was eating them like candy, I was thinking to myself, you’ve got to be kidding!

She finally got me to try one the last morning and oh my gosh!  A recently harvested date, at least a medjool or bahri is like nothing you’ve experienced.   They remind me of chocolate truffles only softer with caramel and vanilla butteriness, oozing ambrosial flavor.

Couldn’t resist.  I picked up a pound at the Borrego Springs farmers market that morning (and since then wish I’d picked up ten).  The plan was to stuff each date with sausage or blue cheese, wrap in prosciutto or bacon then fry.  A very common thing to do but oh so good.

From Borrego, onto Rancho Mirage visiting friends who have a date palm in their yard.  Dianne sent me home with this bag of dates.

They’re a different, more firm type require processing to soften for eating.  I think they’re the noor variety but I’m not one hundred percent certain.

If you don’t like the date fruit, give another try.  Turns out Whole Foods Market in Sacramento has fresh medjool dates in stock now.  I only hope they are as good as my Fernandez Dates from the Coachella Valley- only one more left from my pound.

The Last Medjool

Keep a lookout for recipes that include dates- and feel free to share yours!

February.  With the hectic holidays behind us and resolutions intact- or not- the month brings things to look forward to.  For me, it’s picking out the perfect wine for Valentine’s dinner.  This year it’s a bottle of Molino de Viento.

Wine often has priority over food in our house.  When that certain bottle speaks to me, as with this particular wine, it tells me it has an intense cherry pink color from grape skin infusion.  And it demonstrates a distinct character of the grape variety; spiciness with hints of cranberries and strawberries.  A sip shows off its seductive side sharing a slight amount of tannin giving defined structure.  Yet this wine is elegant and fresh.

So what are we having with dinner?  A dry Syrah rose.

Woffard Acres Vineyards, a.k.a. WAV Wines released their Molino de Viento today.  I’ve enjoyed it the last few years and according to winemaker Paul Woffard, the 2011 is exceptional with a complexity not often found in dry rose.   It’s a real treat.

Now the hard part, deciding what to make the hubby for a romantic Valentine’s dinner.  At least I’ve got the wine picked out!

Anything to do with swine and consuming porcine gets two thumbs up in my house.  That’s why we’re excited about Cochon 555 in Napa on January 29.

Cochon 555 is a touring culinary event to promote sustainable farming of heritage breed pigs.  It lands in St. Helena at the Culinary Institute of America this Sunday from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.  There’s a stellar line up of chefs including Michael Tuohy, former executive chef at The Grange in Sacramento, who is now with Dean & Deluca.  Not only will there be a feast of pork prepared different ways, other impressive food, wine, cocktails and dessert can be had.

If you don’t know about the Cochon 555 event and you love the taste of swine, here’s your last chance.  Be sure to share pictures if you go!

For additional information and to purchase tickets, click here.

Food  and travel adventures during 2011 were astounding.  I couldn’t resist snapping a picture of this delivery scooter, complete with an insultated unit for pig parts.

Then there was waking up to a memorable sunrise on the Mediterranean.

Good morning from Altea, Spain

People talk about sunsets mostly and while I relish a good one, there’s just something about the wee hours of the morning.  I thank my dad for being a morning person.

But I rallied for this one and adapted to Spanish timing for a late night snack at a tapas bar.  One of those family run, small places off on a side street, I ended up chatting with the proprietor in my broken Spanish into the wee hours of the morning.  He brought this out for an early breakfast.

A 16th-century Moorish floor mosaic at the Museo de Santa Cruz in Toledo, Spain was breathtaking.  About 10 feet in diameter, each piece was meticulously laid.  A close up look was both extraordinary and humbling.

This tapa, poached egg on toast with truffle paste and chives was enjoyed with a glass of cava at Juana la Loca in the La Latina area of Madrid.  Result- major food moment with several ummms. I recommend it for anyone wanting innovative tapas with an international flair.  They have a good selection of wines by the glass too.

Sardines, need I say more?!  Wish I could have brought this home.

Look forward to, and wishing everyone an action packed and adventurous 2012.  Oh, and remember, don’t mess with the Italian police!

Crazy Northern California weather this past year confused many plants but the strength of Bacchus in the Amador and El Dorado county wine areas prevailed.  New wineries surfaced while many established operations flourished, making stand out wines.  In Amador County, I’ve particularly enjoyed wines from a small producer with an unwavering focus on reds, Jeff Runquist Wines.

Jeff is no new-bee to the wine scene.  He’s been making wine for some 32 years and continues to be the winemaker at McManis Winery.  Prior to McManis, Jeff made wines at J. Lohr with locations in Paso Robles and San Jose.  He began his career at Montevina Winery while completing a degree in Fermentation Science at the University of California Davis.  Runquist Wines was opened in 2008 just outside of Plymouth, California.

As you drive up the road around the bend, you’ll see the Runquist “R”.

Terra cotta pots filled with flowers brimming over the top year around invite you to enter.  Olive trees were planted this year, lining the winery to the north.  A long tasting bar awaits you with a view of the barrel room behind.  But first, you have to say hello to Pearl, the winery pooch, who won’t let you by without doing so!

The Runquist red wine line up includes Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.  But, this is where you’ll come to have fun trying less common grape varieties like Carignane, Tannat, Tempranio, Barbera, Grenache, Sangiovese, Primitivo and Petit Syrah.  With that said, I tried and came home with several recently but particularly relished two bottles with minestrone soup.

Runquist Barbera

The hubby said, “Red or White with dinner tonight?”  My head deep into soup making mode I replied, “I don’t care, just pick something.”  With the house smelling like Mediterranean memories, he came back with a bottle of Sangiovese.

This simple minestrone has deeper, richer flavors than you’d think.  I make it then let it hang out in the refrigerator a day or two which lets the flavors meld, develop and intensify.

Ladling only the soup’s vegetables and beans into warm bowls, I poured aromatic broth around them, stopping short enough for some to peek out.  Their crown, topped with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano was followed by a drizzle of olive oil that on it’s own, would tickle your throat with fruitiness and spice.  Each bowl was finished with a new favorite salt, Black Cleopatra from Smaromi Salts and Spices, a gracious sponsor of the recent Plate to Page Tuscany workshop I attended.

It’s a home run when a wine pairs famously with a dish.  This was the case with that bottle of Runquist Sangiovese.  It’s brightness, minerals and toasty flavors sung right along with the acidic tomatoes and potent garlic in the soup.  A few days later we had leftover minestrone and popped a Runquist Barbera.  With a ripe berry nose, hints of toast and minerals on the palate, soft tannins and a perky finish that begs you to take another sip, it was also a winner.  Not sure which I liked better so I’ve asked for a bottle of each wine for Christmas!

Minestrone Soup (makes 4 servings)

2 pieces of bacon, diced

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small yellow onion

1 celery stalk

1 small carrot

1 small zucchini

2 garlic cloves, finely minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 cup cannellini beans (either from a can or ¼ cup that have soaked over night and simmered until tender)

14.5 oz can crushed or diced tomatoes with juice (no salt or low salt is best so you can season as you like)

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 teaspoon each dried oregano and basil

½ cup potato, small dice

parmigianno reggiano cheese, grated

Medium dice the above vegetables then set them aside.

Put about 1 tablespoon olive oil in a pot, your favorite one to make soup.  Heat on medium and cook the bacon until it begins to brown.  Add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic.  Don’t put the zucchini in yet.

Cook the vegetables until they get a little soft, 3 or 4 minutes.

Stir in tomato paste, beans, oregano and basil.

Add stock, zucchini and potato.  Stir and season with a good pinch of sea salt and ¼ teaspoon of black pepper.

Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Taste soup and season as necessary, adding more salt, pepper or herbs.

To serve, ladle mostly vegetables into your bowl.  Pour stock around them leaving some vegetables peeking out.  Garnish with a heaping tablespoon of cheese, a drizzle of nice olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt.

A spoonful of pesto on top for extra yum!