Anything to do with swine and consuming porcine gets two thumbs up in my house.  That’s why we’re excited about Cochon 555 in Napa on January 29.

Cochon 555 is a touring culinary event to promote sustainable farming of heritage breed pigs.  It lands in St. Helena at the Culinary Institute of America this Sunday from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.  There’s a stellar line up of chefs including Michael Tuohy, former executive chef at The Grange in Sacramento, who is now with Dean & Deluca.  Not only will there be a feast of pork prepared different ways, other impressive food, wine, cocktails and dessert can be had.

If you don’t know about the Cochon 555 event and you love the taste of swine, here’s your last chance.  Be sure to share pictures if you go!

For additional information and to purchase tickets, click here.

Food  and travel adventures during 2011 were astounding.  I couldn’t resist snapping a picture of this delivery scooter, complete with an insultated unit for pig parts.

Then there was waking up to a memorable sunrise on the Mediterranean.

Good morning from Altea, Spain

People talk about sunsets mostly and while I relish a good one, there’s just something about the wee hours of the morning.  I thank my dad for being a morning person.

But I rallied for this one and adapted to Spanish timing for a late night snack at a tapas bar.  One of those family run, small places off on a side street, I ended up chatting with the proprietor in my broken Spanish into the wee hours of the morning.  He brought this out for an early breakfast.

A 16th-century Moorish floor mosaic at the Museo de Santa Cruz in Toledo, Spain was breathtaking.  About 10 feet in diameter, each piece was meticulously laid.  A close up look was both extraordinary and humbling.

This tapa, poached egg on toast with truffle paste and chives was enjoyed with a glass of cava at Juana la Loca in the La Latina area of Madrid.  Result- major food moment with several ummms. I recommend it for anyone wanting innovative tapas with an international flair.  They have a good selection of wines by the glass too.

Sardines, need I say more?!  Wish I could have brought this home.

Look forward to, and wishing everyone an action packed and adventurous 2012.  Oh, and remember, don’t mess with the Italian police!

Crazy Northern California weather this past year confused many plants but the strength of Bacchus in the Amador and El Dorado county wine areas prevailed.  New wineries surfaced while many established operations flourished, making stand out wines.  In Amador County, I’ve particularly enjoyed wines from a small producer with an unwavering focus on reds, Jeff Runquist Wines.

Jeff is no new-bee to the wine scene.  He’s been making wine for some 32 years and continues to be the winemaker at McManis Winery.  Prior to McManis, Jeff made wines at J. Lohr with locations in Paso Robles and San Jose.  He began his career at Montevina Winery while completing a degree in Fermentation Science at the University of California Davis.  Runquist Wines was opened in 2008 just outside of Plymouth, California.

As you drive up the road around the bend, you’ll see the Runquist “R”.

Terra cotta pots filled with flowers brimming over the top year around invite you to enter.  Olive trees were planted this year, lining the winery to the north.  A long tasting bar awaits you with a view of the barrel room behind.  But first, you have to say hello to Pearl, the winery pooch, who won’t let you by without doing so!

The Runquist red wine line up includes Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.  But, this is where you’ll come to have fun trying less common grape varieties like Carignane, Tannat, Tempranio, Barbera, Grenache, Sangiovese, Primitivo and Petit Syrah.  With that said, I tried and came home with several recently but particularly relished two bottles with minestrone soup.

Runquist Barbera

The hubby said, “Red or White with dinner tonight?”  My head deep into soup making mode I replied, “I don’t care, just pick something.”  With the house smelling like Mediterranean memories, he came back with a bottle of Sangiovese.

This simple minestrone has deeper, richer flavors than you’d think.  I make it then let it hang out in the refrigerator a day or two which lets the flavors meld, develop and intensify.

Ladling only the soup’s vegetables and beans into warm bowls, I poured aromatic broth around them, stopping short enough for some to peek out.  Their crown, topped with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano was followed by a drizzle of olive oil that on it’s own, would tickle your throat with fruitiness and spice.  Each bowl was finished with a new favorite salt, Black Cleopatra from Smaromi Salts and Spices, a gracious sponsor of the recent Plate to Page Tuscany workshop I attended.

It’s a home run when a wine pairs famously with a dish.  This was the case with that bottle of Runquist Sangiovese.  It’s brightness, minerals and toasty flavors sung right along with the acidic tomatoes and potent garlic in the soup.  A few days later we had leftover minestrone and popped a Runquist Barbera.  With a ripe berry nose, hints of toast and minerals on the palate, soft tannins and a perky finish that begs you to take another sip, it was also a winner.  Not sure which I liked better so I’ve asked for a bottle of each wine for Christmas!

Minestrone Soup (makes 4 servings)

2 pieces of bacon, diced

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small yellow onion

1 celery stalk

1 small carrot

1 small zucchini

2 garlic cloves, finely minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 cup cannellini beans (either from a can or ¼ cup that have soaked over night and simmered until tender)

14.5 oz can crushed or diced tomatoes with juice (no salt or low salt is best so you can season as you like)

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 teaspoon each dried oregano and basil

½ cup potato, small dice

parmigianno reggiano cheese, grated

Medium dice the above vegetables then set them aside.

Put about 1 tablespoon olive oil in a pot, your favorite one to make soup.  Heat on medium and cook the bacon until it begins to brown.  Add the onion, celery, carrot and garlic.  Don’t put the zucchini in yet.

Cook the vegetables until they get a little soft, 3 or 4 minutes.

Stir in tomato paste, beans, oregano and basil.

Add stock, zucchini and potato.  Stir and season with a good pinch of sea salt and ¼ teaspoon of black pepper.

Simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Taste soup and season as necessary, adding more salt, pepper or herbs.

To serve, ladle mostly vegetables into your bowl.  Pour stock around them leaving some vegetables peeking out.  Garnish with a heaping tablespoon of cheese, a drizzle of nice olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt.

A spoonful of pesto on top for extra yum!

Try this on for size: an easy yeasted bread, Italian in nature with nuts, figs and more that is wonderful toasted with butter for breakfast or eaten as an anytime snack.  This is Bisciola.

When I first discovered bisciola, pronounced bih-SHOAL-ah, it was presented as yeasted fruit and nut bread.  I’ve come to find it’s more commonly known as an Italian rustic fruitcake.  I’ll try just about any food item and there aren’t many I don’t like but when someone says, “Here, try some fruit cake,” I run.

Italian in nature, bisciola is typical during the Christmas holiday season.  Its origins come from the alpine valley area of Lombardy know as Valtellina.  This northern most area of Italy surrounded by mountains borders Switzerland.  In Valtellina, bisciola cake is often served with vanilla sauce or a sauce made from Braulio, a renowned liqueur from the area.

Like the cake version, the bread is made with nuts, died fruits, eggs and milk.  It’s nothing like fruitcake though, at least this version isn’t.  Instead it reminds me of a walnut levain or cranberry walnut bread with a hint of sweetness.  But you can be picky about ingredients.  I don’t much like raisins so used dried figs and cherries.  I only had buttermilk so buttermilk it was.  Pistachios popped up first thus pine nuts were left out.

One of the nice things about baking bread is it fills your house with that irresistible bread baking smell.  The one that makes you think of fall, winter, cool weather, snow, warm with butter, sitting in front of a fire on a Sunday morning, or whatever it is to you.  Bisciola’s aromas tell you it’s got toasty nuts, warming spices and leave you wondering whether it’s savory or sweet.  Should I break out that bottle of Vin Santo?

Here’s my slightly altered version of bisciola that we enjoyed with Sunday brunch (and I confess, with Vin Santo too!)

Bisciola with butter

Bisciola

½ cup golden raisins (I used dried cherries, roughly chopped)

¼ cup grappa, port or marsala (or whatever dessert type wine you have open)

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of whole milk (I used buttermilk)

2 ¼ teaspoons or 1 packet (¼-ounce) active dry yeast

1 teaspoon sugar

1 ½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup spelt, rye or whole wheat four

3 tablespoons sugar (optional)

a pinch of kosher salt

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

1 large egg yolk, room temperature

¾ cup (about 15) dried figs, roughly chopped

¾ cup walnuts, roughly chopped

3 tablespoons pine nuts, pistachios or hazelnuts, roughly chopped

1 egg yolk plus 1 teaspoon water, for brushing dough top

Method:

Combine raisins and grappa or dessert wine in a bowl. Set aside.

In a small saucepan, heat milk over medium until just warm. Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl, or the bowl of a KitchenAid. Sprinkle yeast and sugar over milk. Let mixture stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.

While yeast is foaming, put flour, salt and sugar in a bowl and whisk to combine. With mixer at medium-low, add half of the flour mixture to the yeast mixture. Mix until well blended, then add the remaining flour mixture along with the butter and egg yolk. Mix for five minutes on low.

Drain raisins, discarding the liquid. Add raisins, figs and all the nuts to dough. Mix on low until just incorporated.

Remove bowl from mixer and knead dough to finish incorporating ingredients and forming a stiff, wet dough.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Form dough into an 8-inch long oval loaf. Cover with plastic wrap or a lightly dampened towel. (The second time I opted for lightly brushing the loaf with olive oil as the dough stuck to the damp towel.)

Let rest at room temperature until double in size, about 2 hours.

Heat oven to 350F with rack in middle of oven.

In a small bowl, beat 1 egg yolk with a teaspoon of water. Brush dough with egg mixture then bake, rotating pan halfway through, until golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes.

Remove and cool on wire rack. Will last 4 to 5 days wrapped in plastic.

Recipe adapted from Italia Cucina.

Remembering those meals, the ones that made an imprint, the ones you can see and almost taste again with your eyes closed.  The restaurants, the towns, the surroundings.  Conversations, ambiance and that friendly wait person who contributed to your delightful evening by adding a little extra something.

A big part of my travel is about food.  It’s about going to the back production area to see how the cheese is made.  Being invited into the kitchen and shown how to cook something.  Or taken into the musty cellar and getting to taste aging wine from a barrel.

There’s nothing like food exploration in a new place, hitting the streets and hoofing it around.  Regular eating habits go out the door and make way for total immersion into another gastronomy.

Interspersed between historical site visits and museums I poke my head into almost every panaderia, fromagerie,  backerie, patisserie, and fleischmarkt, seen, all the while keeping an eye out for outdoor food markets (which give access to items grown and produced in the area).  Mixed in with all this is determining where to eat each night.

When happening upon an interesting suspect, the restaurant name and location are jotted down. People met along the way are asked for recommendations.  Call me crazy but I regularly take pictures of posted menus.

I glide into the night ready for a meal.  Once there, relaxing into the chosen restaurant’s atmosphere, everything around is observed from scanning walls for artwork to breathing deeply for wafting smells.  I wait, anticipating the experience.

The food is consumed.  It’s been a capricciosa pizza in Rome with mushrooms, prosciutto, artichoke hearts, olives and an egg cracked in the middle that when pierced, slowly oozed out like the unctuous creep of chocolate from a lava cake.  

Or a morcilla frito tapa in Salamanca – slices of fried morcilla on toasty bread with Cabrales cheese and a caramelized onion sauce just warm enough to comfort the mouth. 

A cheese plate in Paris that I’d leave my husband for and wonderfully thin and simple ham and vegetable crepes with Gruyere in Colmar that would tame a wild beast.  

In the end, these meals are usually more than fulfilling.  They restore my psyche and seduce me with flavors.  These are the meals I remember.

Along with eleven others and four instructors, I recently attended a Plate 2 Page workshop in the small town of Pistoia, Italy.  We indulged in food, wine, conversation, writing and photography.  The following shares an afternoon experience.

——-

Nestled in the Tuscan hills surrounded by olives and vines, colors changing from green to fall, we gathered around a table.  Nicoletta stood in the kitchen doorway holding the first course of our Tuscan lunch, Serafina behind her.  They began setting down plates and bottles of wine.  On the cheese plate, a young pecorino with its natural sweetness surprisingly accentuated by a drizzle of honey contrasted with a buttery Camembert that stood nicely on its own.  A bite of crusty bread unexpectedly failed to please until paired with capicola, musty and rich, tasting of complexity.  Tuscan dried ham is saltier than the same from other areas in Italy thus works well with pane Toscana, unsalted Tuscan bread.  At least that’s one of the myths but it worked for us.

Capicola with Arugula and Parmesan Reggiano

Nicoletta appeared with a frittata causing eight people to jump up with their cameras.  The air was filled with the sound of shutters clicking, clicking.  When we finally let her set it down, the steam wafting off the frittata’s cratered top- peppered with leeks- had subsided leaving behind the aroma of egg, onion and olive oil.

Next, the sound of popping corks held the promise of a tasting adventure.  The aroma of the garnet colored wine began with mild cherries and finished with Christmas spice.  Smooth on the palate, gliding effortlessly over your tongue, it turned dusty and bright, awakening the sides of your mouth.  The Sangiovese grape enjoyably complimented the rich creaminess of the eggs.  Nicoletta, cook, winemaker and host proudly offered wine from her vineyard, Il Salicone.

Warmed by the sun and delighted by Nicoletta’s food and wine, by the time dessert came we had relaxed into the comfort of the Tuscan meal.  Biscotti?  Cantucci?  We were quickly educated about both, learning the tradition of dipping cantucci into sweet wine but our glasses of red worked just fine.

Kate's Cantucci Photograph

Crostada di cioccolata followed the biscuits teasing us with the taste of hazelnuts.  An espresso jolt later, we were feeling sufficiently energetic for a winery tour.  Hands-on, down to earth methods are why Il Salicone’s wines are unforgettable.

Sitting in my house now, all I need to take me back to Tuscany is the sound of a cork popping and the aroma of mild cherries and Christmas spice.

—————-

Kate McNalley was my jovial winery lunch and tour partner.  Together, we wrote, took pictures and strolled in the wee hours of the morning.  Kate currently resides in Belgium with her husband.  You can visit Kate at her colorful blog, Serendipity.

From Plate to Page was developed by four tremendous women: Ilva, Jaime, Jeanne and Meeta.  Visit the P2P website or Facebook page to learn more about these ladies and workshops.

Products from Newcastle based Snow’s Citrus Court were my first foray into the world of northern California mandarins.  Raylene Snow whipped up a half dozen or so varieties of wraps then graced them with her sauces, dips and dressings.  I fell in love.  That year it was just in time for the Mountain Mandarin Festival.  This year the festival is November 18 through 20 in Auburn at the Gold Country Fairgrounds.

This is the 18th year of the celebration which will include product samples for numerous artisan product producers, professional chef demonstrations, a cooking contest, food crafts and activities, a peel-and-eat contest, free kids area and live music. Holiday gift baskets and wreaths are also available as well as mandarin scented products like candles, lotions and soaps.

Some of my favorite tastes include chocolate covered mandarin slices, mandarin pulled pork, mandarine gelato and mandarin syrup, which is great on not only pancakes but in oatmeal too.

The Mandarin Festival Cookbook is updated and for sale too.  It contains the best of all recipes collected over the past 12 years from local mandarin growers, cooking demonstrations, chefs and contestants.

Here is the festival scoop:

Location: 1273 High Street, Auburn, CA

Parking: Gold Country Fairgrounds Parking is $5, some free street parking

Hours: Friday 11-5 p.m., Saturday 9-5 p.m., Sunday 10-4 p.m.

Admission: $2 Friday, $6 Saturday and Sunday, age 12 and under free, seniors just $4

Click here for additional information.

Smoldering and cracking on the metal, they’d eventually open showing their cream colored flesh singed around the edges.  He handed me a paper cone of roasted chestnuts.  They smelled of barbeque without the sauce.  I held and savored that cone, my freezing hands beginning to warm like the earth when the sun peaks over the horizon.

A grinning chestnut showing off it's flesh.

Chestnut roasters are common on street corners throughout European cities.  My chestnut indoctrination was during winter in Zurich, Switzerland where I stood watching as a man tossed and flipped the nuts in a gigantic wok type pan over a large can of fire.

Needless to say they’ve been a seasonal favorite ever since.  The downside is I’ve only found them to buy like this – freshly roasted in fall and winter months – on occasion.  You can buy chestnuts during this time at some farmers’ markets, including the Sunday morning market in Sacramento.  But no one roasts them!  I’m told it’s an old world thing.  I just enjoyed some on a street corner in a great city.

Sure you can roast them at home in your oven.  But there’s something about watching the act, smelling dozens upon dozens, grabbing the pack and popping a hot one into your mouth.  All without having to clean up the mess and air out your house!

Figs and goat cheese are two of my favorites.  Add a glass of Sancerre and you’re in for a treat.  I recently put my favorite fig aside and tried blueberries with creamy goat cheese layered in a pastry crust.  This is my new choice for an anytime galette.

Blueberries and goat cheese weren’t my idea but that of Seattle chef Tamara Murphy in her book, Tender: farmers, cooks, eaters. Creative simplicity and use of fresh ingredients that stand on their own is what it’s about.  For a review, head over to my friend Amber’s site, Awake at the Whisk.

With regards to this galette, temptation to purchase deal-of-the-century blueberries from Trader Joe’s ($2.99 for 32 ounces) was overcome last winter when remembering how those from local producer, Delta Blues, burst in your mouth releasing delightful flavor.  Blueberries from this small family operation are at various Sacramento area farmers’ markets during summer months.  I bought and froze a few pounds for winter enjoyment.  They’ll be just as spectacular.

The recipe finishes with basil sauce but I chose to use the sauce on mixed greens instead.  Our leftovers were topped with warmed berry sauce and a dollop of fresh whipped cream for a spontaneous Sunday brunch.  A slice of this pie is like a Kir Royale; it’s adaptable for anytime enjoyment whether sweet or savory.

Ingredients

3 – 4 cups blueberries

1 tablespoon sugar

Juice and grated zest from 1 lemon

Pinch of salt

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1/2 cup soft goat cheese

1 egg

Raw sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Method

In a bowl, combine blueberries, sugar, lemon juice and zest, and salt.  Add cornstarch and toss to coat evenly.

Roll out crust in a circular shape to about 1/4-inch thickness.  Transfer crust to a baking sheet.  Pile blueberries in the center of the crust, leaving a 2-inch border.  Crumble goat cheese evenly over the blueberries, making sure to put some all around the edge overlapping where the berries end and 2-inches of crust begin.

Beat the egg lightly.  Paint the edges of the crust with the egg.  Fold the edges of the crust in toward the center, about an inch over the filling.  Chill for 20 minutes.

Ready for the oven

Preheat oven to 375F.  Brush the crust with egg.  For a sweet application, sprinkle sugar over the crust.  Bake until the crust is golden, from 30 to 40 minutes.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

I first experienced Padrón peppers on a trip to Spain two years ago.  Glancing at a just delivered plate that sizzled and glistened, our waiter asked what was next.  “We’ll have that.” I said in my broken Spanish.

I fell in love with the Padrón all over again on my recent trip.  Named after Padrón, the Galacian town where they’re from, they were all over Spain on menus and in markets.  My plant had only produced one before we left and it was a hot one.  Quizzing a merchant in Madrid, I was told about every fifth pepper is fiery.  The others are mildly sweet with a subtle nutty flavor.  Heat increases the longer you leave them on the plant.

I got home to a plant bursting with peppers.  About one out of three had substantial heat, which was fine with us.  My Tinto de Verano and Mark’s beer extinguished the fire. 

Since we demolished our harvest and they’re only around for a short time, I picked up a pint from Capay Organics at the Sunday morning Sacramento market last week.  Capay is hoping they’ll have them one last time this Sunday.

They’re easy to make and easier to consume.  Dare I confess we had them three times one evening while in Spain?!  Grab one by the stem and into the mouth.  Small ones go in one bite, larger take two.  Be sure to lick your fingers.

Tip:  If kept on the plant a long time, they’ll grow larger, get hotter and turn red.  You can dry and grind these into powder and use as you would a hot paprika, make hot sauce, or throw them into the fry pay too.

Pimientos de Padrón

Pimientos de Padrón

Heat oil in a fry pan until shimmering and hot.  Toss in your washed Padrón (they’ll pop and crack due to the residual water so watch out).  Cook and stir them until charred and wrinkled.  Sprinkle with a nice sea salt, toss, then place on a plate.